Cultivating Herbs and Edible Flowers

Inch for inch and row for row, herbs offer a wealth of flavor in every square foot of the garden, while edible flowers provide a feast for both the eyes and the plate.

Imagine a small balcony overflowing with containers of basil, lavender, thyme, and mint. Or envision a garden where calendula, dianthus, and nasturtiums mingle with roses and berry brambles. The culinary delights and design possibilities are endless when herbs and edible flowers are within arm's reach.

Summer is the high season for Mediterranean natives like rosemary, thyme, sage, and savory. However, here in the Pacific Northwest (PNW), we can cultivate a variety of herbs year-round. From chives, chervil, parsley, and mint in spring to the heady perfume of a late summer basil harvest, herbs add a rich, sensual dimension to even the most basic diet.

Many edible flowers also provide valuable support to pollinators and beneficial insects.

How to Grow

Most herbs and flowers need at least 6 to 8 hours of sun per day, although parsley, mint, and begonias will tolerate less light. Herbs are generally not fussy about soil but, like most plants, they do require good drainage. Annual herbs and flowers are easily and economically grown from seed, while perennial plants and woody herbs are best purchased as starts. When choosing herbs, don't hesitate to pinch, sniff, and sample to select those with the strongest aroma and flavor. Also, ensure that flower starts like daylilies, dianthus, and begonias are toxin-free if you plan to consume them.

Resist the urge to over-fertilize herbs; you may promote lush plants, but this often comes at the expense of taste as excessive growth dilutes the essential oils that impart flavor. Harvest edible flowers as blooms open and petals are at their most vibrant. Pick herbs from young plants before they flower, ideally after the dew has dried in the morning, for the highest concentration of flavorful oils. The more you pick, the more the plants produce.

You can plant herbs and flowers in just about any container as long as it has been drilled with drainage holes. Buckets, old kitchen tins, window boxes, terracotta pots, wooden crates, and agricultural troughs all make whimsical yet practical homes for herb and flower gardens. No matter how you choose to grow them - integrated among vegetables, in a separate plot, or in containers on a sunny porch or windowsill - herbs and flowers deliver big.

What to Grow

No kitchen garden is complete without the added cheer of fresh herbs and flowers. Here are some favorites:

Basil: Annual; seed or transplant. Tender green (or purple) leaves have a spicy perfume and come in a variety of flavor profiles like lemon, cinnamon, and spicy Thai.

Bay: Woody; transplant. This evergreen shrub adds a zippy citrusy aroma to savory and sweet dishes alike.

Chamomile: Perennial (Roman); transplant or division; annual (German); seed. A versatile herb with excellent antifungal properties.

Chervil: Annual; seed or transplant. Delicate feathery foliage and a mild licorice flavor.

Chives: Perennial; seed or transplant. Bright, oniony snap when minced, and pretty pink starburst blossoms.

Cilantro: Annual; seed. Flat-leafed cilantro with a citrusy flavor; seeds known as coriander.

Dill: Annual; seed. Delicate thread-like leaves with a bright, zesty flavor.

Fennel: Perennial; transplant. Finely cut, anise-flavored foliage and aromatic seeds.

Garden Sage: Woody; transplant. Velvety leaves with a savory, slightly camphorous flavor.

Lemon Balm: Perennial; seed or transplant. Lemon-mint flavor, great for tea.

Lemon Verbena: Perennial; transplant. Long, pointed leaves smell and taste of fresh lemons.

Marjoram and Oregano: Perennial; transplant. Similar flavors, commonly mislabeled.

Mint: Perennial; transplant. Hardy plant with aggressive growth; varieties like spearmint, lemon, ginger, apple, and pineapple.

Parsley: Perennial; seed or transplant. Fresh grassy flavor packed with nutrition.

Pineapple Sage: Perennial; transplant. Tropical pineapple fragrance and sweet flavor.

Rosemary: Woody; transplant. Resinous, needle-like foliage with a strong coniferous flavor.

Sorrel: Perennial; transplant. Tart and lemony; French sorrel has a refined garden appearance.

Summer Savory: Annual; seed or transplant. Peppery blend of thyme and mint flavors.

Tarragon: Perennial; transplant. Refreshing licorice flavor, classic combo for fish and eggs.

Thyme: Perennial; transplant. Peppery flavor with hints of citrus.

Edible Flowers

Anise Hyssop: Perennial; transplant. Sweet licorice flavor with a minty undertone.

Bee Balm: Perennial; transplant. Citrus-mint flavor, traditional in tea; attracts hummingbirds.

Begonia: Annual; transplant. Citrusy flavor, great for salads, fish dishes, and cocktails.

Borage: Annual; seed or transplant. Refreshing cucumber flavor; sky-blue flowers.

 Calendula: Annual; seed or transplant. Golden hued petals, mild, peppery flavor, anti-inflammatory properties.

Chrysanthemum: Annual; seed. Pungent, slightly bitter flavor; traditional in Asian cuisine.

Daylily: Perennial; transplant. Sweet and peppery; great in salads or quick-fried.

Dianthus: Perennial; seed or transplant. Spicy sweet clove-like flavor; fragrant.

Lavender: Perennial; transplant. Traditional in herb blends; soapy or perfumed flavor.

Marigold: Annual; seed or transplant. Pungent lemon fragrance and flavor; yellow or tangerine hues.

Nasturtium: Annual; seed or transplant. Peppery bite, edible flowers and foliage.

Pansy: Annual; seed or transplant. Mild flavor, colorful garnish on meals and desserts.

Rose Petals: Perennial; transplant. Fragrant, traditional "rose" flavor, great for sweets and cocktails.

Violets: Perennial; transplant. Highly fragrant, deep purple blossoms, traditionally candied with sugar.

The Art and Science of Growing Tomatoes in the Pacific Northwest

No other vegetable (technically a fruit) unites gardening enthusiasts and non-gardeners alike like the flavor of a vine-ripened, juicy tomato. Mastering the following techniques for cultivating this beloved crop under the sometimes capricious conditions of the Pacific Northwest (PNW) might mean the difference between a ripe harvest or another batch of green tomato salsa.

Planning

Tomatoes are well-suited for growing in a cloche, hoop house, or greenhouse. The plants are self-fertile, containing both male and female parts in the same blossom, capable of setting fruit without an outside pollinator. When planting outside, choose a sunny and warm site for your tomatoes. Planting them near masonry or stone walls, which store heat, reflect light, and provide shelter from the wind, is an excellent tactic to add critical warmth.

To ensure a harvest in the occasionally cool PNW summers, choose short-season tomato varieties that ripen in cooler climates. Look for varieties labeled with keywords like "early," "northern," or "glacier." Several varieties from regions with similar heat-challenged growing seasons to the PNW, perform well here, as do locally bred varieties. These "homegrown" varieties often have names that reference regional geography. Smaller tomato types, such as cherry and salad varieties, reliably ripen early; larger beefsteak varieties are best left to gardeners in hotter regions or those with backyard greenhouses.

Many small farms prioritize flavor and production; inquire at your local farmers' market to discover which varieties thrive in your area. Gardeners without access to well-stocked farmers' markets or nursery transplants can start their own seedlings under indoor lights beginning in March.

When purchasing tomato plants, select stocky plants that are 6 to 8 inches tall, with healthy green leaves and sturdy stems. Avoid plants that are already in flower or setting fruit; larger, more established plants when they begin to flower generally yield more. Tomato seedlings should not be transplanted unprotected until nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 45 to 50°F. Even June is not too late to get plants in the ground, as several weeks of unprotected cold in the garden do not hasten an early harvest.

The Birds and the Bees and the benefits in your Garden

 

A healthy, organic garden positively teems with inset life. With so much attention focused on eliminating or controlling bad bugs, it's easy to overlook the good guys Less than 10 percent of the insects we come across in our yards do damage. Chances are, any bug you don't actur ally know to be a pest is beneficial or benign. Beneficial insects feed on aphids, cutworms, and other garden pes they also process organic waste and pollinate crops.

About 80 percent of plants, including melon, cucu bers, pumpkins, squash, and most fruit trees and berno are completely dependent on pollination in order to reproduce. Insects such as bees, butterflies, and moths-as well as hummingbirds and even bats-transfer pollen from one flower to another in the course of collecting or feeding on nectar (the nutrient-dense and sugary substance secreted by plants). In this evolutionary and symbiotic process, pollinators receive nutrition as they distribute grains of sticky pollen from the male part (anther) of one flower to the female part (pistil) of another flower.

It's all very sexy in a fourth grade biology kind of way.

Many beneficial insects are too tiny to see or masquerade as their less-welcome counterparts. Rather than sorting the good and the bad—let's face it, they're all ugly-try cultivating an informed tolerance and strive to maintain a healthy environment. If you really want to dig deeper into the fascinating insect world, get a bug book with good photographs and keep your eyes open. There's even an app for that: search iTunes with keywords such as "bugs" and "insects."

A healthy beneficial insect population is like a microscopic residential army quietly fighting the war on bad bugs while we gardeners sit back and pull in a bountiful harvest. Here are some tips to keep your garden buzzing with pollinators:

Don't go spray crazy. The most important aspect of altivating a pollinator-friendly environment is keeping the garden as free of pesticides as possible. Most controls, organic and otherwise, wipe out the good insects along with the bad. So think before you spray and always start with the least toxic option.

Plant smart. Mix plantings with sequential bloom periods throughout the growing season to ensure a constant supply of nectar and pollen (necessary food for pollinators and good bugs when they're not eating bad bugs). Also know that many little flowers are preferable to a single large flower which can actually drown a tiny insect in nectar. Include plants which bloom in umbels and daisy-like flowers such as fennel, angelica, dill, cori-ander, chamomile, cone flower, and yarrow.

Just say NO to imported ladybugs. Nurseries do a brisk trade selling cartons of live ladybugs each spring.

Granted, they are cute, voracious aphid-eaters in the garden, but their environmental pedigree is questionable.

To be effective, ladybugs must stick around long enough to actually feed, lay eggs, and produce larvae. These larvae, which look like little red and black alligators, are the heavy lifters in the aphid-control department. Most ladybugs released in the garden quickly fly away to do their good somewhere other than in the yard of the gardener who purchased them. Instead, try planting a row of sunflowers to attract beneficials now that's cute.

Companion planting

Depending on who you ask, companion planting is either Nature's brilliant means of self-defense or yet another case of horticulture hooey. Any endeavor that's been practiced for as long as gardening is going to have its fair share of folklore and tradition. Native Americans combined plantings of beans, squash, and corn them the "three sisters." Beans planted alongside com e the stalks for support while their roots improve the sl Planted at the base of the corn, squash plants consere. moisture by shading the soil while their prickly leas and stems discourage pests from attacking the com tol beans. The science behind nitrogen-fixing root nodus and living mulches may not have been explicitly dis-cussed, but it doesn't matter: they practiced the trade because it worked.

Do some plants play more nicely with their neighbes while other pairings prove contentious? You be the ju In my experience, the carrots don't lie. For years my carrot crop was nothing but a disgusting mess filled wit tunneling carrot rust fly maggots. Today I plant a rox o onions alongside my carrots and their roots are maggo-free. Pairing plants that contain pest-repellent properis and/or attract pest-eating bugs and pollinators may sen complicated on the surface, but it is actually an elegan example of the many underlying, balanced, and natur systems at work in the garden.

Eat from your garden

Every successful landscape requires structure. The bustling chaos of crops during the peak season can quickly devolve into an unruly mess without a solid framework. Raised beds and pathways provide strong lines and visual scaffolding that carry your design through seasonal changes, filling gaps left by harvested plants.

In an edible garden, most of the action happens at ground level. Architectural elements like teepees, trellis supports, arches, and fences add much-needed height and scale. They also provide vertical growing space for beans, peas, squash, and flowering vines, enhancing both the functionality and aesthetic appeal of your garden. Beyond hardscape elements, integrating fruiting woody plants adds structural interest. Fruit tree cordons, espaliers, living fences, arbors, and tunnels are classic forms of garden art that bring formality and structure while efficiently using space.

Many Pacific Northwest gardeners, eager to maximize sunshine, are hesitant to include fruit trees due to their shade. Columnar apple and pear trees were initially a novelty but have since proven to be a space-saving boon, doubling as striking design elements. These naturally dwarf trees grow just 8 to 10 feet tall and 2 feet wide, yielding a plentiful harvest of full-size fruit along their central, non-branching trunk.

Landscape Plants with Edible Returns

Numerous trees, vines, and shrubs, some perhaps not previously considered, offer both an edible crop and abundant beauty and interest. For a landscape that is as visually appealing as it is flavorful, consider incorporating some of these plants into your Pacific Northwest garden. Containerized trees and shrubs can be planted throughout the year, provided the soil is workable. Note that all perennial and woody plants require attentive watering and care during their first full year to establish strong roots.

Apple, cherry, pear, and plum: Full sun; height and habit vary by cultivar; deciduous. Showy spring flowers give way to colorful fruit in summer and fall.

Chokeberry: Full sun to partial shade; sprawling shrub reaching 5 to 6 feet tall and wide; deciduous with beautiful fall color. Tart berries high in vitamin C ripen in fall.

Elderberry: Full sun to partial shade; suckering shrub growing 15 to 20 feet tall; deciduous. Some cultivars have ornamental foliage. Spring flowers can be used in wine or fritters; berries (blue, black, or golden) ripen in late summer.

Evergreen huckleberry: Tolerates shade; reaches 6 to 8 feet tall in partial shade, 3 feet tall in full sun; evergreen. Produces sweet-tart bluish-black berries in late summer.

Fig: Full sun; grows up to 25 feet tall but can be pruned smaller; deciduous. Harvest dark purple or green fruit in late summer.

Grape: Full sun; woody vine; deciduous. Choose early-ripening varieties for best results in the cool PNW climate.

Gooseberry and currant: Full sun to partial shade; shrub reaching 4 to 6 feet tall; deciduous. Produces beautiful flowers and jewel-colored fruit in summer.

Kiwi: Full sun; large vine growing 30 feet tall; deciduous. Dramatic foliage and sweet fall fruit, but requires two vines for pollination.

Persimmon: Full sun; Asian types grow 15 feet tall, American types up to 35 feet but can be pruned smaller; deciduous. Orange fruit ripens in fall.

Quince: Full sun; grows 20 to 25 feet tall; deciduous. Related to apple and pear, with fragrant, fuzzy, golden fruit ripening in late fall.

Rugosa rose: Full sun to partial shade; grows 4 to 6 feet tall; deciduous. Excellent for flowering hedges; harvest rose hips in fall for an edible treat.

Serviceberry: Full sun to partial shade; tree reaching 15 to 20 feet tall; deciduous. Native to the Northwest, bears large red berries in summer and has vibrant fall foliage.

Wintergreen: Full to partial shade; creeping ground cover growing 6 inches tall; evergreen. Bright red berries with a strong wintergreen flavor ripen in late summer; both leaves and berries are edible.

These plants not only enhance your landscape but also provide a bountiful harvest and contribute to a vibrant and sustainable garden ecosystem.

Effective Pest and Disease Management

Discovering unwelcome guests devouring your vegetable patch is incredibly frustrating. The urge to launch an all-out assault and eradicate pests may be strong, but this approach is unsustainable, dangerous, and can cause severe collateral environmental damage. Instead, it's wise to choose your battles in the garden carefully.

Personally, I prefer a live-and-let-live approach to the inhabitants of my garden. Whether it's peaceful coexistence or lazy indifference, I'd rather dedicate my time and energy to almost any other garden task than chasing down bugs. I find a daily stroll through the garden to assess growth, observe changes, and note tasks that need attention much more enjoyable. This routine is a great way to monitor crop health and stay alert to emerging problems before they escalate.

Our gardens are part of a larger living system where predators and pests compete. A healthy, organic garden hosts beneficial insects and visiting birds that happily feast on aphids, cutworms, and other pests. The less we disrupt this natural balance, the better. Building healthy soil, properly placing and caring for plants, and cultivating a diverse mix of plants to attract beneficial insects and pollinators are the best strategies for maintaining a productive, edible garden. Stressed plants are more susceptible to pest and disease infestations, so strong, vigorously growing plants are key to minimizing damage.

However, discovering a slimy trail where seedlings once thrived is aggravating. Finding a tiny slug in the salad bowl, no matter how clean it may be after a spin in the salad spinner, is alarming and a real letdown at the dinner table. When pests are devouring faster than you can plant, or your family becomes wary of dinner, it's time to take action.

Characterization, identification, and treatment are crucial components of effective organic pest and disease management. You can't control the problem until you identify what you're dealing with. Often, the first sign of a pest or disease is damaged plants or impaired growth. Are leaves chewed or stippled? Is there a slimy trail where the lettuce used to be? Refer to resources to identify the likely culprit causing damage to your plants.

Once you correctly identify the problem and the culprit, half the battle is won. Different pests require different controls, so knowing you're dealing with slugs, not cutworms, makes a significant difference. Organic gardeners have a variety of control options available. Whether you pick, spray, bait, or cover, success is more likely when you work with the natural cycles already present in a healthy garden. I'm always fascinated to observe predators moving in and naturally managing pest populations.

Disease is unfortunately a regional challenge in PNW gardens. Mild winters, wet springs, and occasional cool summers provide perfect conditions for various fungal diseases to flourish. Prevention is key to disease control. Select healthy, disease-resistant plants and practice good garden hygiene. Most fungal diseases thrive on wet foliage, so minimizing moisture on leaves can help reduce the risk.

 Natural Pest and Disease Control

Many of the ingredients needed to control pests and diseases in your PNW garden are likely already in your kitchen cupboard. These tried-and-proven recipes are not only better for the environment than pesticides but will also save you money.

Homemade Insect Spray: For soft-bodied pests, mix 1 to 2 tablespoons of liquid soap (such as Dr. Bronner's peppermint) with 1 quart of water in a spray bottle. Shake well and spray directly on pests, ensuring you hit them for the solution to be effective.

Slug Bait: Place shallow, wide-mouthed saucers at soil level in the garden and fill them with beer. Slugs and snails are attracted to the alcohol, fall in, and drown. Use disposable saucers for easy cleanup—yogurt cups, tuna fish cans, and sour cream containers work well.

Garlic and Pepper Pest Repellent: In a blender, puree 3 cloves of garlic, 1 small onion, and 1 tablespoon of cayenne pepper. Pour 1 quart of boiling water over the mixture, steep overnight, and strain. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons of liquid soap, mix well, and transfer to a spray bottle. Apply to plants and reapply after rain.

Sticky Traps:To control tiny or mobile pests, make sticky traps from sturdy cardboard or plastic (cut into 5 by 7-inch pieces). Paint them yellow or use yellow cardboard (like from a cereal box) to attract insects. Coat both sides liberally with petroleum jelly, then staple the trap to two wooden garden stakes positioned just above the foliage of beans, eggplants, and cabbage family plants. Replace traps when covered with pests and dust.

Using these natural methods can effectively manage pests and diseases in your garden while promoting a healthier environment.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a practical and environmentally conscious approach to managing garden pests. It emphasizes careful observation and common-sense strategies to minimize pest damage rather than aiming for complete eradication. This approach uses the most economical methods with minimal environmental impact.

Traps, Baits, Lures, and Handpicking

Traps, baits, and lures are effective techniques for reducing pest populations and identifying the specific pests causing damage. Placing traps and bait stations away from valued plants is important to avoid attracting pests. Handpicking, although simple, remains an effective method for managing pests.

Attracting and Controlling Pests

Strategically placed boards or dampened, rolled-up newspapers can lure pests away from susceptible plants. Beer bowls or iron phosphate-based slug baits are effective in controlling slugs. These organic methods are commonly used in the PNW to manage pest populations.

Monitoring and Control

Regularly monitoring new plant growth helps in early pest detection. Aphids can be removed by pinching affected stems or spraying with a targeted hose. Infestations of leaf miners, leaf rollers, webworms, and cutworms can be controlled by removing affected plant parts or handpicking. For cutworms, handpicking at night and dispatching them into soapy water is particularly effective.

These low-tech methods are highly effective for controlling infestations and preventing damage. They provide a safe and environmentally friendly alternative to chemical treatments, minimizing risks to people, property, and the environment.

Barriers and Repellents 

Horticultural fleece (Reemay) is a lightweight, gauzy fabric which lets in light and moisture while providing a physical barrier to keep pests out.

Gardeners who continually battle carrot rust fly or cabbage maggots may find this is the only reliable solution to a pest-free crop. Fleece or netting also protects newly sprouted peas, beans, and corn from being picked off by hungry birds-and it may mean the difference between the crows and a blueberry harvest.

Copper tape or banding is a great deterrent for slugs and snails. The tape gives mollusks a nasty electrical shock (something to do with the natural salts present in pure copper) so they won't cross it. Protect raised beds, encircle edibles in containers, or band shrubs and trees to minimize damage. Just make sure that these damaging pests are on the outside of the barrier.

Garlic- or onion-based sprays repel and confuse insects who find their target plants through a highly

Insecticides 

Insecticides-the big guns - should only be used when other measures have failed because they can kill the good bugs along with the bad. Just because a product is "organic" does not mean it is nontoxic. In addition to killing on contact, these stronger controls often have a residual effect too, effectively persisting on plants to kill pests when ingested or working to interrupt a pest's life cycle and prevent maturation.

Insecticidal soap sprays work by desiccating soft-bodied insects, such as aphids, thrips, and white flies. Thus, you need to actually hit the insect for the control to be effective; tricky for flying pests and those that hide in nooks and crannies or on the underside of leaves. Plant-based insecticides such as those containing pyrethrins or neem provide a broader spectrum of control.

developed sense of smell. Don't worry, the odiferous oils are absorbed by the sprayed plants and spread throughou plant tissues to fight off pests from tha inside out, leaving your garden to sel of sweet soil and flowers rather than the neighborhood pizza joint. I wish the same could be said for various concos-tions of predator urines developed to deter larger mammals like deer, cats, dogs, and rodents. Apply these at some distance from pathways, patios, and windows.

Biological controls like Bacillus thuringiensis (BT) and benefcial nematodes work to control caterple lars and grubs but must be applied under strict conditions to be effectie Talk with knowledgeable gardeners and nursery staff, read labels, and educate yourself to avoid disappolit ing results and expensive waste.

Spring Garden Surge: Strategies for Managing Explosive Growth

The spring garden is a demanding companion, like a headstrong puppy on a long leash. Lengthening days and warming weather bring on a tsunami of growth that threatens to swallow us whole. Before I get too tangled in the myriad details of the peak growing season and a rapidly expanding garden, I try to remember to insert some gentle controls. Garden structures furnish the landscape with arresting focal points as they corral growth and provide additional vertical growing space. Addressing emerging pests and disease early in the season puts you out in front of the battle. With any luck, you'll strike a healthy balance and reduce problems for the rest of the growing season.

Garden support structures can be crafted from a diverse array of materials, offering options that vary in complexity and formality.

Vertical gardening is essential for maximizing your growing space. By training vines on structures like teepees, trellises, and arbors, you can free up ground space for planting in dynamic and productive layers. These structures also help control, stake, and support fruiting plants that might otherwise collapse under their own weight or sprawl messily, such as cane berries, peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, and fava beans. Additionally, staking promotes good air circulation and allows sunlight to reach ripening fruit, which is particularly beneficial in damp and cloudy climates where crops like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants mature slowly and are prone to fungal diseases on wet foliage.

Vertical gardening features offer more than just practical support; they enhance garden design by adding visual interest and breaking up the ground plane where most planting occurs. Arbors and pergolas create focal points, while trellises, fencing, and walls define the space. An open-work fence around the garden not only provides additional vertical growing space but also keeps out low-treading animals like rabbits, cats, and dogs, although some critters will still enjoy any fruiting vines they can reach.

You can create various garden supports from everyday materials such as bamboo poles, canes, and wire fencing. A simple three-legged tripod is easy to construct (just lash poles together with twine or a few zip ties) and can be easily taken down and stored for the winter. Add a touch of elegance by using stylish materials for your garden structures.

 Tips for Training Plants

Match the plant's growth habit to the appropriate garden structure. Pole beans, for instance, climb by twining around narrow supports; slim poles, open-wire fencing, and twine offer ideal support for their winding stems. Other vines, like peas, use their delicate tendrils to encircle anything they can, lifting the plants as if climbing a ladder. For these plants, provide ample support with a wire grid, netting, or traditional "pea-sticks" made from twiggy branches. Melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, and squash, which have tendrils but require tying to a sturdy framework, need strong support for their heavy vines and ripening fruit.

Position garden structures well before plants need them. Once the season is in full swing and growth accelerates, it's nearly impossible to place trellises and cages without damaging roots and fragile stems. Ensure your trellis is securely anchored to withstand windstorms and heavy rain, as well as the weight of mature plants. Nothing is more disappointing than seeing your pea fence topple just as you're ready to harvest, or watching your tomato plants, heavy with ripe fruit, fall from a flimsy wire cage.

Consider the height of the gardener when constructing garden structures. Trained and trellised plants should be easier on your back during harvest, offering ripe crops at a convenient picking height. However, be mindful of the mature size of the plants. For example, a bumper crop of pole beans on tall bamboo teepees may require a step ladder to harvest. Check seed packets and resources to anticipate the plants' mature size, or enlist the help of a tall assistant for harvesting.